St. George Spirits Dinner at Nostrano w/Charles Joly
Ever since Danny Shapiro made me a perfect—and by that I mean the best ever—St George Terroir gin martini at Scofflaw in Chicago, I’ve been hooked. Not to say I don’t appreciate other gins, of course, but that drink made such an indelible mark on my well-soaked brain that I’ve been having a torrid affair with Terroir ever since.
It was a thrill, then, when I learned that not only was Nostrano having a St George Spirits dinner, but that bartender Grant Hurless’s former colleague and mentor Charles Joly would join in behind the bar.
I’d just met Joly recently after he switched from the Drawing Room to his new digs, a little place called The Aviary.
At the four course Nostrano pairing dinner, two of Joly’s cocktails were bookended by Hurless’s. St George Spirits in attendance: Terroir, Dry Rye, Botanivore, Absinthe Verte, and their Breaking & Entering whisky.
First up was a beautifully spruce scented libation called Walking Through the Woods in London with My Pet Elephant Ralph .
I immediately appreciated that the acidity and minerality mimicked what you’d want out of a wine paired with this course. It was an excellent ‘greet you’ drink as we tucked into the beginning of the dinner. Hurless was off to a very solid start.
The char was stupendous, with expertly crisped skin on top providing crunch and umami. Noodles underneath were thin and firm, also providing texture. The pairing was pure Pacific Northwest.
Course two continued on to guinea hen, again expertly prepared. Slightly charred skin, a bed of rye berries for texture. Cocoa nibs and hazelnuts. Hen of the Woods mushrooms and tart, crisp, apples.
The change to feathered gamey fall fare was paired with Joly’s take on a Martinez, the cocktail from which Martini gets its name. It’s actually the primordial (19th century) link between the Manhattan and Martini, as it’s a Manhattan that substitutes gin for whiskey. I suddenly wished I was sporting clothes with leather patches on the elbows or knees.
From where I was sitting at the bar, I enjoyed Joly’s deft drink presentations with full descriptions of the ingredients.
As waiters know, dish (and cocktail) narrative is itself an art. It is an integral part of the dining experience, and important part of the theater. It is often also an important educational moment– this is where the house can elevate and inform its clientele, pique curiosity, guarantee return visits. Good dining is an intellectual enterprise, and should tingle the brain as much as the palate. Joly is expert at wordsmithing his delivery—not chatty, just precise.
The third course deepened flavors still more with roasted venison loin fanned-out over fingerling potatoes and topped with bright fuchsia beets. The venison was tender, juicy, and not too rich.
The cocktail to accompany was just a touch herbaceous—and superb. Menacingly so. I’m afraid I won’t have a drink quite as good for some time.
The ingredient Cocchi Americano (pronounced co-key), is an aperitif wine made from moscato d’asti (fortified wine) with a little brandy, orange, and cinchona bark (the original source of quinine) thrown in. Cocchi is famous amongst cocktailians because it is the closest recipe to old formula Lillet. Lillet botched things in 1986, lowering alcohol content and reducing bitterness. Thus, the excitement when Cocchi became available in 2010 as a way to bring bitter back into drinks like the Corpse Reviver.
Chef Tim Dahl came out smiling from the kitchen to serve the next—and off menu— course. He’d devised a gelee version of a Boulevardier. A Boulevardier is commonly known as a Negroni that substitutes whiskey for Campari. However, to be exact, the Boulevardier predates the Negroni— so don’t go answering ‘whiskey Negroni’ during any trivia matches.
Unfortunately, I missed getting a picture of the cocktail Hurless paired with dessert, another of Elizabeth Dahl’s great creations. Absurdly delicious dark chocolate provided dramatic backdrop for a flavor stage filled with figs, black olive, fennel, and toasted almond.
Following dinner, I asked Joly for a ‘bartender’s choice’ and he made a cocktail with the one remaining St George spirit I hadn’t had yet that night, the Breaking & Entering whisky. Egg white, whisky, gin, maybe some absinthe. It was a play on an Elk’s Own cocktail. I love a good egg white drink, and this frothy treat was a tasty way to end an evening of exquisite cocktails and beautifully executed food pairings.
Goose Island at Nostrano
Goose Island has been around long enough for me to remember it in the fridge when I was a kid. My dad used to drink it. I’m also a fan, and I pick up the delicious Sofie fairly regularly when I’m in the mood for saison.
I accidentally ran into the Goose Island folks while they were here for Madison Craft Beer Week, and I joined them at a few of their events.
We started-out with a cheese & beer tasting at Fromagination with Goose Island educator/cheesemonger Suzanne Wolcott. We ended at Nostrano for a beer-paired dinner. We may have hit a few bars in between.
There’s been major concern regarding Goose Island since the conglomerate that owns Budweiser, InBev, purchased the brewery last year. But word is, other than instituting drug testing, the parent company has left the golden goose alone. Actually, many feel that it has been an improvement for the brewery—allowing for better market access and some extra cash to push creativity.
I got the sense that for moment the purchase has had minimal impact.
Goose Island’s motto is “brewed for food,” and the ales are indeed great with nosh. Especially at Nostrano, where chef Tim Dahl is a long-time Goose Island drinker.
Dinner began with the elegant Sofie paired with a soft shelled crab over asparagus, French breakfast radishes and chickories. Large caperberries were cut in half to reveal their exotic lotus-like innards, and they provided a subtle pickle-y tang. The crab was fried in a light batter, and the whole was a nice launch to the meal.
Goose Island Matilde
Braised pancetta, which has been on the menu for a few weeks now, was already a favorite of mine. I love the rabe, hazelnuts, and the grapes together. And the pancetta is a layered pork playground. The pork might have been heated a touch too fast and hard, however, as the fattiest parts were just on the edge of melting– but it was still delectable. The Matilde, which is perhaps my favorite Goose Island Beer, was a perfect pairing.
I am not a ‘dark’ beer guy, but the Pepe Nero—Goose Island’s black pepper saison— was a complete surprise for me. I loved it at Fromagination with Sartori’s Bellavitano Espresso, and I loved it again with Nostrano’s chestnut tagliatellé. This ale was born for the deep flavor of chestnut and cured goose yolk, as well as the kind of salty zing this dish got from guanciale. The chive blossoms strewn in the bowl made this course visually stunning, and it was easily the best pairing I had all Craft Beer Week.
As an aside, Goose Island’s Omaha-bred Andrew Osterman told me that he uses Pepe on his steaks. Omahaians know their beef, so I paid attention: poke holes in a tupperware, throw in some steaks, and let them dry in the fridge for a night or two. Then, the next day, pour in the Pepe Nero. Let the steaks soak it up. Grill.
Dessert was the Caramélia Crema paired with Pere Jacques Belgian-style Abbey Ale. This is a dessert I have written about before, and adore. Kumquat, rich chocolate, lovage, smoked almonds. It has it all. The ale held up to the many flavors.
Rounding-out the meal were mignardises—in this case cute little macarons: one rhubarb and poppy, the other lovage and chocolate genache.
The Goose Island dinner made me remember the days before microbrews became the insanely hoppy, fruity, ridiculously over-blown monstrosities they are today. The backlash seems to be coming—extreme is on the way out. When the full retreat begins, Goose Island will be well-placed to welcome diners back to beer that is a compliment to food, not in competition with it.
Unstoppable April
Every year I forget what a great food month April is. There is Passover Seder and Easter brunch. There are chocolate bunnies. Things start to bud and bloom. This year morels have arrived already, as have ramps. Then, as if that weren’t enough, the big WI food event of the year—Slopig— is on April 22. This month is simply unstoppable.
In between wandering around and smelling blossoming trees, I’ve been eating & drinking. On the way to visit the gorgeous waterfall at Governor Dodge State Park, I finally made it to Naked Elm Bakery in Blue Mounds. It was worth the trek, even without sampling the famed pizza. I did, however, sample a powerfully good potato, onion, garlic and cheddar cheese flatbread. Crisp crust, deep earthy potato flavor, plus sharpness from the cheddar. The space feels right, airy and relaxed— and the counter folk are über friendly.
Naked Elm's Potato Onion Garlic Cheddar Cheese Flatbread
James Beard nominee Chef Nicholas Johnson has moved on from 43 North to join Gotham Bagels, and Francesca Hong has stepped to the helm to replace him.
I stopped in to see her, and had a great mini meal. She’s in the midst of making some changes at 43 North, and I’m excited to see this story unfold.
43 North's Scallops with Passion Fruit Beurre Blanc, Seared Pineapple, Cocoa Nibs, & Micro Greens
At Papavero, aka the ‘Italian Swine Shack’ (their words), I had a brilliant artichoke tortellacci in herbed butter. Or was it chive tarragon butter?
Osteria Papavero's Artichoke Tortellacci
I finally made it to Distil in Milwaukee and had a fantastic cocktail called the Health & Beauty. Indeed, it was reminiscent of a beauty product—all frothy and delicious. Ingredients: Hendrick’s Gin, Lavender, Sour, Heavy Cream, Egg White, & Mint Bitters.
Distil's Health & Beauty
Back in Madison, I ducked into the Johnson Public House during a spot of rain and had one of the better macchiatos I can remember. I wish I recalled the blend, because such details are important at JPH. Now that the weather is nice and it is easier to get down there, this exceptional coffee house may be on my constant weekend rotation. That good.
Johnson Public House Macchiato
Nostrano’s newish bartender Jesse made me a great Aperol Negroni, but then also an Ephemeral out of Jim Meehan’s PDT cocktail book. Composed of elements I love (Ransom Old Tom Gin, Dolin Blanc Vermouth, St. Germain, and celery bitters), it is nevertheless a bit unusual. Parts vie for attention and no two sips are quite alike.
David Shenaut's Empheral from Jim Meehan's PDT Cocktail Book
I had heard Nostrano’s braised pancetta dish was irresistable, so I ordered a plate and the rumor did not lie. This was like pork mille-feuille—showcasing what a good piece of piggy and some prep wizardry can do. It was almost desert-like in its caramelly goodness. I want it again as I write about it now, always a good indicator of how deeply something has impressed the pleasure receptors. Rapini gave it color and crunch, hazelnuts provided a nuttiness, and pickled grapes lent bright acid.
Nostrano's Braised Pancetta with crispy polenta, hazelnuts, pickled grapes, and rapini
On to L’Etoile, where an amuse bouche truly amused me. Cottage cheese. Pepita. Asparagus. Meyer lemon zest. All with the flower Jonny Jump-up on top. Beautiful and coolingly delicious.
L'etoile's Amuse Bouche
I also tried a couple of new spring dishes. The first was hand-stretched Oaxacan mozzarella wrapped in brick dough with wild watercress, toasted pine nuts, ramps, black pepper-rhubarb purée, and grape must. Cesar Luis at Sassy Cow Creamery hand-pulls the mozarella for this fun, if slightly over-complicated, dish. See more about Cesar’s process over at Cheese Underground.
L'Etoile's hand-stretched Oaxacan mozzarella, wrapped in brick dough, wild watercress, toasted pine nuts, ramps, black pepper-rhubarb purée, grape must
I also tried the house-smoked Sturgeon. This dish was exactly what I want a starter to be: an invitation to continue. It is whimsical and utterly delicious.
L'Etoile's House-smoked sturgeon, oyster mushroom-green garlic galette, Jones Valley Farm mâche, Meyer lemon-herb crème fraîche, fried capers
There is considerable excitement swirling around L’Etoile’s new pastry chef, Melinda Dorn.
L'Etoile's new Pasty Chef Melinda Dorn
Formerly pastry chef at the Wild Goose, in Lake Tahoe, she studied in Switzerland and was a Chopped! contestant. After trying a single dessert, I’m looking forward to great things. Her Peanut butter & jelly tranche with strawberry sorbet and basil foam was delightful. Peanut butter and basil? It works.
Melinda Dorn's peanut butter & jelly tranche with strawberry sorbet & basil foam
Melinda is a welcome addition to a downtown that already boasts exceptional, big city, desserts from Elizabeth Dahl at Nostrano. Right now Dahl has a dish called the ‘Crema’ on the menu, and it is remarkable: bittersweet chocolate cream, toasted ciabatta, candied kumquats and olive oil gelato. If you haven’t enjoyed it yet, this is one dessert worth going well out of your way to experience.
Nostrano's Crema: Bittersweet chocolate cream, toasted ciabatta, olive oil gelato, candied kumquats
Eating the Heatwave
[Portions of this entry became an article for the Isthmus. Read it here.]
The great prolonged blast of warm air toasting the Upper Midwest has culinary life here in turmoil. It’s spring weather, summer even, yet nothing is growing. Cocktail programs are shifting gears quickly to respond to the higher temperature, but in kitchens chefs are scratching their heads. What produce is local and organic right now? Unfortunately, only root vegetables and some hothouse greens.
Last night I opened the menu at L’Etoile only to realize that I had already nearly missed sturgeon season. It is normally a greatly anticipated bright spot in early March– for years I’ve enjoyed grilling it outside while freezing– and here it is going off menus already. I missed it because instead of the usual order of things, I’ve been prematurely gorging myself on the light and bright foodstuffs I crave when cold gives way to warmth.
The heatwave has me eating like it is June.
A surprise hit dish at Rising Sons Deli was the perfect accompaniment to an afternoon that reached nearly 80 degrees. Yum Neua is a beef salad with bright yellow peppers, onion, carrots, cilantro, lemongrass and mint. The sauce is sweet and sour, spicy from chilis and pungent from fish sauce. In short, tropical and glorious.
Red Sushi has been running special rolls with thinly shaved strawberries on the outside. Typically, this kind of roll doesn’t appeal to me in the least— but with the door kicked open on a sweltering evening, it was the right time to try one. It worked, the strawberry was delicious with the crab, avocado, and tuna. It added a sweet and sticky highlight to the fats and sesame.
Sal, who works the counter there, also passed over some high grade uni. Great uni sucks the heat right out of the surrounding air just like ferns do. Alien edible gossamer pudding, it is one of the planet’s strangest textures— with the subtle flavor of the sea lingering as a slightly acrid aftertaste.
In Chicago, a trip to Pho 777 brought lotus root salad, a broken rice dish, and a huge plate of items to roll in rice wrapper by hand. There is nothing quite like stuffing fistfuls of fragrant green leaves into mouth.
The Tastee Freez on Armitage had a line out the door. The entire gamut of Chicagoans stood waiting for dogs and and malts.
Since there was a wait anyway, I snuck over to Brand BBQ across the street for their famous Burnt Ends Mac & Cheese. The caramelized overcooked pieces at the edge of barbecued meat that we all like to sample and savor first before it even hits the plate? The schnibbles? Yes, those—in thick, rich, creamy, dreamy, mac and cheese. It’s so good it hits your brainstem first, short-circuiting any sense of decorum, and you just gobble while awkwardly mouthing “OMFG.”
Floriole, the bakery in Lincoln Park, was ready — all doors sprawled open into the sun and rows of awaiting fruit tarts . Grapefruit, passion fruit, and mango. Mango, with little flecks of mint.
Yusho, the new yakitori venture by Chef Matthias — Charlie Trotter’s former chef de cuisine– amazed with a bowl of miatake mushroom, egg viniagrette and dashi gelee. It tasted like both the forest floor and cool ocean breeze. Textures contrasted, flavors delightfully confused.
A jaunt over to the very new Scofflaw delivered the best cocktail of the year so far– a St. George’s Terroir gin and Dolin Vermouth martini, slightly dirty, with three olives. It was fall on the floor good. Accompanying it was a refreshing grapefruit, avocado, chicory, and sea salt salad with a white wine vinaigrette. Run, don’t walk, to Scofflaw.
At Whistler they were doing a Verdita— a shot of tequila alongside a bright green shot of cilantro, mint, pineapple, jalapeno, and habanero. One made me elated, two made me dance the night away.
Back in Madison, the first shandy of the year arrived on the Argus patio. Three Floyd’s GumballHead and fresh squeezed lemonade.
Out at Stalzy’s Deli, the first picnic-ready and bike friendly snack of the year appeared with their new Piragi (not to be confused with pierogi). Lighter than you would suspect, it has brioche-like bread but a little crunchier— with bacon inside. It tastes like the old country, if your old country is Latvia.
At L’Etoile, Reuben Mendez’s One Way Street tasted like the essence of tangerine. Tangerine Shrub, korean chili pinch.
Graze has a new calamari plate that is as tasty as it is beautiful.
Merchant’s Pork Belly Dog is already famous, and deservedly so. This thing is a force of nature, and one of those menu items that is born iconic. I like to take it a step further, as Scott Meskan (UNeedToEatThis) does, and add a Nami Moon Farms duck egg on top. It screams summer fun. Or maybe it just screams, period.
At Nostrano there was a beautiful celery salad—heirloom apple, chicory, pistachio. It is cooling, tart, and lemony.
The most memorable bite of this entire heatwave, however, has to be the first taste of homemade Camembert (made in a cheese class) with Baker’s Window bread while hiking at Gibralter Rock. Magnifique.
Nostrano Brunch Preview
The morning after Distill America, Nostrano served a brunch with North Shore Distillery breakfast cocktails. Hastings Cameron of Underground Food Collective was working the bar with Grant Hurless, and Trevor Gruehn of Johnson Public House was slinging the coffee drinks. Chef Tim Dahl told me the brunch was something of a test for this spring— when he plans to serve a similar prix fixe on Farmer’s Market Saturdays. Nostrano will soon be a major contender in the brunch category.
There was a separate coffee menu, which unfortunately I didn’t get a picture of—but to give an idea of what Gruehn was sending out, here is a shot of my latte:
I also ordered a superb bloody mary which was vegetal—lots of rosemary—and came skewered with what I assume was an Underground Meats sausage. Sadly, I failed to get a shot of it.
I ordered the gnocchi, which was presented instead as fried polenta sticks. I didn’t mind the switch, as the polenta was crispy on the outside and still creamy within. The shrimp was zesty from the chili verde. I thought it was a fun and successful starter dish.
The beet-cured Salmon was a gorgeous plate. It arrived as a pink still life with shaved beauty heart radishes and intensely colored salmon. This contrasted with a dark brown rye bagel. Glorious to behold, wonderful to eat, and my pic doesn’t do it justice.
For my second course, I tried the pancetta hash with a duck egg and nasturtium pesto; it was satisfying although a touch salty and oily. However, sometimes for brunch just a touch of grease is welcome—there might have been something missing had it been any lighter. It was earthy and spicy, and the nasturtium pesto worked well on the duck egg. The crispy ciabatta gave it textural oomph. The accompanying salad with dill and shaved fennel was perfectly dressed and bright.
Despite all the exciting things going on with the hash, the smoked pork shank sandwich was the most popular item. It garnered praise such as: “This might be the best smoked pork I’ve had out in a restaurant.” Coming from the man I consider Mr. pork connoisseur himself, this was high praise indeed. There was spice from the house-made giardiniera, sweetness from the onions, and a pop from the grainy mustard. Everything about this dish worked.
Just to be sure we weren’t missing anything, I also ordered the panettone. I would have had hash & pork envy had I ordered it alone, but as an extra the panettone was a great sweet foil to the rest of the food. I thought it was a creative take on the Italian classic, and I enjoyed the playful appearance. It confirmed that brunch at Nostrano will cover both savory and sweet with equal panache.
For the finale, the Veinnoiserie (Vienna-style pastries) engulfed us in baked decadence. As heavenly as it looks– plum, apple, almond, and even chocolate eclairs. It is going to be a long wait until April 21st!
andré darlington 